How To Clean Red Diesel Out Of Tank
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"Muriatic Acid for Fuel tank cleaning?"
An ongoing word offset back in 2005 ...
2005
Q. I am restoring a Porsche that has been sitting idle outside for about 7 years. I am at the point where I need to clean the fuel tank and become the rust out of it before using fresh fuel and possibly called-for upwards a rather expensive fuel pump. I have heard that Hydrochloric acid [affil. link to info/product on Amazon] was the mode to go but haven't institute any literature on 1: How fast acting is it? 2: Will it make clean all the rust that is in the lesser of my tank? 3: Is there actually a safer product that will do the job only equally well?
I have been restoring cars for some fourth dimension now but this is the commencement time that I oasis't just replaced the tank because of the expense involved. I would capeesh whatsoever advise or comments.
William M [concluding name deleted for privacy by Editor]
Hobbyist Auto Restorer - Georgetown, Texas
^
 | 2005 A. The muriatic acid yous propose using would certainly make clean the rust out merely unfortunately you lot will experience 2 subsequent problems. Outset, once the acid is rinsed out, the freshly cleaned steel volition exist very decumbent to oxidation (rust) unless you employ a rust inhibitor of some type. That is going to be unavailable to the abode user. Secondly, what are you lot going to do with extremely hazardous, corrosive substance such equally Hydrochloric (muriatic) Acid? If someone like myself were to exercise this in an industrial setting I could go to jail and face up serious fines. Since you won't have a wastewater treatment system, I urge you not to do this. Perhaps a better solution would exist to utilize annoying blasting done at a shop that specializes in this type of work. Apparently the geometry of the tank will be of consequence because you may not be able to reach every remote area of the tank simply it'due south just a suggestion. If y'all're concerned about annoying dust remaining in the tank afterward cleaning, you tin utilise CO2 blasting which just evaporates as soon equally it contacts the part.  Daryl Spindler , CEF decorative nickel-chrome plating - Greenbrier, Tennessee ^ 2005 A. Muriatic acid is a weaker mixture of Hydrochloric acid, don't let that fool you, it is nevertheless very potent stuff and should be handled with the utmost intendance. In regards to your idea for cleaning the tank with the acrid I can say that yep, it will eat the rust out of your tank, and so promptly let it rust back up again, very very rapidly, about 30-45 minutes you volition accept rust on it once again. You will need to seal the tank (peradventure fiberglass?), very quickly later using the acid. Overall I think this is a bad idea and you lot would be amend off getting a new tank, but there is my prediction and suggestions for you. Good luck with the Porsche Marc Banks- Elizabeth City, N Carolina ^ 2005 A. I would caution you nearly using hydrochloric acid on your fuel tank. While it will do a good job dissolving the rust, you may uncover holes you didn't know you had. In addition, you will need to rinse the metallic very well to remove the chlorides that can crusade more than corrosion. I recommend using the least aggressive method possible. I assume this rust in on the interior of the tank. If it is light rust, phosphoric acid or citric acid will do well. Try a 10% (west/w) solution and drain and rinse well after 60 minutes. Temperature is of import as well. Batch the solution using hot tap h2o and try to keep the tank at least warm throughout the procedure. Good luck. Joseph Lockrem- Indianapolis, Indiana ^ |
| | 2005 A. As you tin encounter, no one here thinks derusting with hydrochloric acid is a skilful idea. Muriatic is too ambitious, and you will have a subsequent rusting problem. There are two good approaches. i). You tin can buy a kit which contains cleaner, deruster, and tank coating materials, and practice the task yourself. I used this process on my AH tank fifteen years ago, and it is still fine. 2) You can ship your tank to a visitor which will derust and hot dip galvanize it. Either of these methods will forestall futurity rust and seal pocket-sized pin holes. Get a re-create of Hemmings Motor News [affil. link to magazine on Amazon]. You'll find both advertised there.  Jeffrey Holmes, CEF Spartanburg, South Carolina ^ ---- 2005 A. Hi William, What Marc suggested about fibreglass seems to be a good idea. However, this does hateful REMOVING the tank beginning of all. Having done that and 'cleaned' out the insides, then I'd suggest you clad the whole outside with at least one layer of mat plus a suitable fibreglass resin (Isopthallic may not be good enough chemically speaking, go for a vinylester due to its ameliorate flexibility over a Polyester). This should comprehend, as Joseph said, any 'holes'. Maybe you should 'coat' the inside of the tank first of all. Ask your friendly local frp shop for some advice. They might well propose a THIN vinylester coating by pouring it into the tank and sloshing it around ... maybe that should exist commencement thing to practice. Thinning done with Acetone [affil. link to info/production on Amazon], I believe. Re hydrochloric, take a gander in the athenaeum at # 12044 which might/might not be useful. I did employ fibreglass on my rear muffler ... the Volvo'due south rear muffler didn't final likewise long in winter/salt conditions. It worked out A.OK. ... merely that was in Ye Olden Days of the 70's.  Freeman Newton [december] (It is our sad duty to propose that Freeman passed abroad Apr 21, 2022. R.I.P. old friend). ^ 2005 A. Co-incidentally I am in the procedure of removing electroplating from plastic using a diluted muriatic acid. As I have learned from other posters to your thread the ecology damage is of business organisation. I had non considered this before my projection. I can tell y'all that it works very well, and be very conscientious virtually contact with anything you care well-nigh. Optics!, Easily, clothes, even the sink can be damaged. Fumes tin can be very bad if not diluted then you lot may need animate equipment as a dust mask won't help. A few years dorsum I read a motorcycle magazine D-I-Y commodity covering this exact subject area. The article outlined a kit with ii or more parts. Start a cleanser then a sealant is applied to the interior of the tank. This leaves a painted look to the tank that won't rust and can help prevent leaking. One avenue to follow up is that Harley does this to all their tanks when manufactured, and then a field trip may be in lodge. Check out POR-fifteen as a start. At that place is a fuel tank repair kit [affil. link to info/product on Amazon] listed. Practiced luck. David Grand [terminal name deleted for privacy by Editor]- Vancouver, Canada ^ |
2005
Concord with David. For $55 yous can't go wrong.
Jeffrey Holmes, CEF
Spartanburg, Southward Carolina
^
2005
A. You can utilize 5% citric acrid solution (or 50 gm citric acid/1 lit water/+ some ammonia, pH must be 3,5)! Rinse well! Much meliorate and safer than muriatic acid! Skilful luck!
Goran Budija
- Zagreb, Croatia
^
2005
A. I can vouch for the POR-15 fuel tank repair kit [affil. link to info/product on Amazon] , and have used it in motorcycle fuel tank restoration. In improver to the kit(which includes a metal etching chemical), nevertheless, I take as well used hydrochloric acid to remove rust from the within of the same tank. The hydrochloric acid(1 qt for a six.v gallon tank) was put in total strength and the tank was then "rolled" for most two minutes. I immediately drained the acid into a bleed pan, and rinsed the tank for about 5 minutes. Then dried the inside of the tank with hot air. As soon as information technology dried, the POR-fifteen was applied. The muriatic acid was then poured from the drain pan into the original container for proper disposal at the municipal hazardous material disposal center. The hydrochloric acid did a great job of removing the rust, as, overall, the inside of the tank looked like bare metallic.
One word of circumspection regarding the POR-15; if yous take whatever pocket-size passages(in my example the tank crossover tubes), insert a wire cablevision prior to applying the POR-15, as it hardens like iron, and those passageways volition be impossible to articulate. Let the POR-15 cure (4 days), and pull out the wire cables.
Good luck,
Johann Uhrmann
- Michigan
^
2005
A. Endeavor Eastwood. The company has it all for restoring cars (including gas tanks)
Pete Ross
- Portsmouth, Virginia
^
2005
A. FYI, hydrochloric acid tin exist neutralized with Baking Soda . It must still exist properly disposed of, but neutralizing makes information technology much safer.
Bob Nauta
- Nunn, Colorado
^
2006
A. Muriatic/Hydrochloric Acid is only HCl + Water (not sure of the dilution).
Add Baking Soda (NaHCO3), and one gets NaCl + Hii0 + C02...
I.due east., when ane neutralizes HCl with Baking Soda, one gets a resulting mixture of Water, Carbon Dioxide, and Salt, none of them are considered caustic substances. If "pure", it would require no special treatment.
That doesn't mean that the sludge that you are picking up isn't caustic.
You might note, your own body makes and regulates Muriatic acid (tummy), and regulates the sodium and carbonate levels quite finer.
Clifford Keele
- St. Louis, Missouri
^
Thanks Bob, thanks Clifford. While HCl certainly can be neutralized with baking soda, we wouldn't want people to extrapolate from their experience of neutralizing vinegar, and fail to realize that this neutralization procedure will gas and cream 10X as much as they expect, even later on being warned to expect extensive foaming. It can take half of forever to neutralize 1 cup of potent HCl with blistering soda if atmospheric condition aren't right.
Also, I'd like to reconcile Daryl's warning of dire legal consequences with Bob & Cliff'southward more cavalier mental attitude. The fact is, the government "categorically" regulates some industries, such that the legal requirements can depend more upon what 'sector' yous are in than what chemic y'all are discussing. In the plating manufacture, for case, every driblet of hose water is regulated fifty-fifty if it is totally neutral and and then dilute that you could safely drink a tank-car total. If you are a hobbyist rather than a professional person, y'all are not office of whatever sector and can probably legally do a lot that Daryl isn't allowed to do. Merely if you are taking in work and being paid for it, exist cautious almost the fact that you may now be in a 'category' where waste disposal is strictly regulated regardless of how safe or neutral or innocuous you think it is.
Regards,
Ted Mooney , P.E.
Striving to live Aloha
finishing.com - Pine Embankment, New Jersey
^
2006
A. Propose you expect at a production POR-fifteen [affil. link to info/production on Amazon] I had a rust trouble in the fuel tank of my Austin Healey which I treated with POR 15
I was quite impressed with the result.
Keith Bailey
- Brisbane, Australia
^
 | 2006 I have used Muriatic acid and it works peachy. I don't see the large deal about the stuff, dump it along the fence as I also do with used motor oil. It makes a not bad edging solution and I don't have to weed information technology. I actually call back everyone is going way over board near the environs stuff as if this is the worst thing that is existence washed to the Globe in each person's daily life. Jason HeightsTampa, Florida ^ 2006 That was probably a put-on, Jason, but merely hope y'all never have to sell the holding. Not sure nearly Florida, but in virtually states all that earth will have to be excavated and disposed of. The muriatic acid probably wouldn't last for also many years, but the oil will exist around for many decades. Ted Mooney , P.E. Striving to live Aloha finishing.com - Pine Beach, New Jersey ^ |
2007
A. THERE ARE A NUMBER OF OTHER PRODUCTS THAT WORK Just AS WELL. Ospho [affil. link to info/product on Amazon] FOR One WORKS Peachy AND Some other IS Chosen Rust Bullet [affil. link to info/product on Amazon]. RUST BULLET "KILLS" THE RUST AND TURNS IT INTO A PRIMER. IT SAYS IT Volition Last FOR 10 YEARS Guaranteed Just I DON'T KNOW near INSIDE A FUEL TANK. Anyhow, Yous Tin Cheque THEM BOTH OUT. HOPE THIS HELPS!
JEREMY MORGAN
- WESLEY CHAPEL, FLORIDA
^
2007
Q. I have a gas tank that I am redoing. It was in an accident and someone was going to prepare it and didn't. It has been sitting with no pigment or any coverage for ii years. In that location is start of rust. Should I remove the rust before I Naval Jelly [affil. link to info/product on Amazon] (Big project), or will the sanding later Bondo [affil. link to info/production on Amazon] take intendance of it?
Joan Cooper
hobbyist - Orangevalle, California
^
2007
A. I just got off the phone with Rust Bullet, and was told that their product can Not exist used for the inside of a fuel tank.
Scott Flanders
- Gig Harbor, Washington
^
May 18, 2008
A. Have you ever tried Naval Jelly [affil. link to info/product on Amazon], it destroys rust and washes off with water.
Danny Roberts
- Lawrenceville, Georgia
^
August xviii, 2008
Q. I am planning to make clean out the front end and rear fuel tanks on my 1944 Ford F250 diesel truck. I volition drain them, remove them, launder with Purple Power [affil. link to info/production on Amazon] cleaner and a pressure washer.
If information technology rusts I am planning to apply hydrochloric acid . What effect does muriatic acid have on the internal finish (aluminum)? - Thank you
Pete Petersen
- Atlanta, Georgia
^
September v, 2008
A. I have used muriatic acid for rust on motorcycle tanks. Of form, these petrol tanks can hands be removed.
I use 1:2 dilution with warm water and get proficient results in about an hour.
I then neutralize past rinsing with mutual dish lather and water. Rinse completely, and accident out with compressed air.
I so immediately glaze the inside with two-stoke oil and rinse out with cheap gasoline. The tank is then ready to fill with fresh premium.
I gauge they're all right for car tanks, but I take had bad results with tank liner solutions. The stuff never seems to set completely and causes paint on the outside to blister.
David Patterson
- Madison, Tennessee
^
November 2, 2008
A. You guys are missing the boat. Big Time. I worked in the steel handling industry for years and Phosphoric acid is the way to go. WHY ... The FeO3 will exist removed and a Phosphate blanket with convert the FeO3 to a college resistant to corrosion surface. Used to treat metallic earlier painting for years. So go with a five% solution, heated to 140 °F. Follow with water rinse and so alcohol rinse.
Tank will appear slightly gray in color if done correctly. Google Phosphate coatings for more than info.
Nib Mikolay
- Waynesboro, Virginia
^
August 31, 2009
A. The issue of disposal of muriatic acid should not be a problem. After use information technology is piece of cake to neutralize the acrid with sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) or sodium hydroxide. In the first reaction you lot yield COtwo Common salt and Water.
HCl (muriatic acid) + NaHCO3 (sodium bicarbonate) --> H2O (water) + COii (carbon dioxide gas) + NaCl(Table common salt)
In the 2d reaction you yield salt and water
NaOH(sodium hydroxide) + HCl(muriatic acid) --> NaCl(table Salt) + H2O(water)
There is no issues with disposing of this into well-nigh urban center sewer systems (information technology's just salt water). The only issue to be aware of is ensuring the cloth is completely neutralized. This is much easier with sodium bicarbonate because as information technology is buffered, and so you can add too much of it and terminate at an acceptable pH. With Sodium Hydroxide y'all can create a very high pH mixture which can also be dangerous. In either instance, most h2o handling plants prefer betwixt a 7 and 10 pH. Yous can test this volition relatively cheap pH strips.
Always follow proper neutralization techniques when working with acids and bases - Neutralization releases free energy, so when you neutralize a solution speedily you generate a potential for explosion, and trust me... exploding acid all over you and your equipment is unsafe (and destructive).
These neutralizations are very common, and data about the techniques involved are very readily available online.
Be safety!
Shawn Fels
- Central Point, Oregon
^
March 18, 2022
A. Like Johann U. in Michigan said, I will vouch for POR-15 fuel tank repair kit. Just finished my 25th gas tank, thank you Daytona Bicycle Calendar week!
Simply thing I did dissimilar was beginning I used the Marine Clean [affil. link to info/product on Amazon] which is a very good product, it does remove whatever former fuel tank liner and varnish and a "small" amount of rust. I was out shaking tanks similar crazy and rotating them. Unremarkably let them sit for 24 hours then rinsed them out till they didn't experience slippery.
And then I still prefer to withal use Muriatic Acid, pour a quart in raw, non diluted and added almost 100 daisy bb's, and but shake the gas tank around for 4 minutes turning information technology constantly.
This will remove all of the rust. Information technology's just a pain in the ass trying to get all the bb's out. And so rinse it for like ten minutes to get all the Muriatic Acid out. This stuff is very unsafe, yous must clothing Prophylactic Gloves [affil. link to info/product on Amazon] gloves and put goggles [affil. link to info/product on Amazon] on crusade it volition burn through your shirt and your pare in seconds and hurt like hell.
Then I dry out the tanks out with a heat gun, use a pilus dryer if y'all don't take a heat gun for like an hour.
So record of the drain and air plugs and pour in the POR-15 Metal Ready and duct tape off the cap hole and coil it effectually for like 5 minutes. And then turn the tank on its side for 30 minutes a side for no longer than 2 hours equally the instructions specify. Rinse the tank out several times then back to the drier for at least an hr.
Then pour in the tank liner and let it dry. And walla! You will have a just as good as brand new gas tank. I simply did 25 this week and every i looks every bit skilful every bit the other.
Just remember that rust volition flash in seconds, and so programme on doing your tank project when you take 4 hours of gratis time.
Woody
Woody McTootle
- New Smyrna Beach, Florida
^
July 31, 2022
A. A concatenation or old nuts and bolts, shaken inside to remove pieces of rust, 50/50 mixture of normal pond pool acid called muriatic acid and water poured within for about 3 hours to remove all rust,rinsed with h2o and thereafter with acetone to remove all traces of water and your problems are solved-Andrew of South Africa.
Andrew Pietersen
- Roodepoort,Southward Africa
^
December 12, 2022
Q. I had astringent rust in my gas tank, could this crusade harm to my fuel injectors? I but put in a used motor, ran great for first xx miles and so lost all power just like the first motor, I pulled the tank to replace fuel pump and noticed the farthermost rust, replaced the tank, pump and filter but the engine running very rough
Les Daniell
just me - Lubbock, Texas The states
^
June four, 2022
A. I'm in process of rehabilitating a John Deere E35 edger (Kawasaki engine) with SEVERE internal fuel tank rust and some pitting on top around the breather holes. Many gardeners consider the JD E35 the Porsche of edgers.
Had no time to go to store so used ordinary household vinegar (glacial acetic acid, I think) and a bunch of nuts and bolts followed by water rinse. Got out most of the rust but got a light picture show of yellowish corrosion, probably not plenty to foul the rebuilt carb.
Found a university extension site that OK'd pouring out the vinegar on the lawn.
Also tried CLR later on 66 year. old neighbor told me he used Ruby-red Devil Lye for the job as a boy, simply 1 has to certify they are a saponificator to go this methamphetamine ingredient today. I buy my soap at Walmart.
I perhaps could attempt the Phosphoric acid trick above, before reassembly and apply.
Paul Bush-league
- Durham County, North Carolina, USA
^
June 6, 2022
Hullo, Paul. Cheers for the info. 2 minor corrections:
Vinegar is rather dilute acetic acid, whereas glacial implies 100% force;
Lye is even so readily available; drain cleaner crystals are ofttimes lye. It's dangerous stuff, simply has a very common household apply.
Regards,
Ted Mooney , P.E.
Striving to live Aloha
finishing.com - Pine Beach, New Bailiwick of jersey
^
July 29, 2022
A. Look at a product chosen Ruby-red-Kote fuel tank liner by Damon Products.
It can exist found on the internet and eBay. It does not require that all rust exist removed and bonds the rust with a flexible coating.
I have used information technology on several Tractor tanks in poor shape and never had a problem.
John Black
- Thomasville, North Carolina
^
September 3, 2022
A. The tractor restorers I talk to tumble their tanks with precipitous difficult pebbles, any kind of pocket-size granite or marble chips from the garden center. It'due south easy enough to make a tumbling jig for your tank. Or if you take a pickup truck with bad shocks and bumpy clay roads but put the tank and pebbles in at that place for a few weeks, turning occasionally.
Greg Reid
- Millerton, Pennsylvania, United states of america
^
Feb 17, 2022
I take an old Suzuki Motorcycle that once had a rusty gas tank. My buddy told me to employ this stuff called Hydrochloric acid (with which I was unfamiliar). The first time I messed information technology upward and it rusted all over again (because I did null afterwords). The second time around I managed to get out all the rust, I washed it out with a ton of water, took a hair dryer to it, and pumped in a bunch of WD-40. Well, two years and 4000 miles later I see no rust in my tank. So something must have worked! And on a lighter note, don't inhale the yellowish fume. That'southward what you phone call toxic.
Ryan Naro
Hot Rodding - Loveland, Ohio United states
^
May 30, 2022 -- this entry appended to this thread past editor in lieu of spawning a duplicative thread
Q. Hobby is car restoration and I am wrestling with a problem of removing rust from the within of a Porsche fuel tank. I had it professionally done but am unhappy with the consequence. Examining the internal surfaces I see some black rust patches (probably neutralised) and quite a lot more brown patches, apparently not treated. The tank has a relieved area to accommodate role of the spare bike. As a issue of this it has complex interior surfaces.
I program to set up about v litres of muriatic acid solution of 1:5 (hot water) to give enough volume to cover all surfaces with some rotation. I would leave this in for near 30 mins rotating each few minutes, then affluent with h2o and neutralise with solutions of blistering soda flushing finally with fresh h2o.
At this point I am considering introducing phosphoric acid to glaze the entire internal surface.
I would capeesh your opinion on the ratio for the solution of phosphoric acrid and the length of time to exit it in the tank. I assume concluding flushing with fresh h2o and drying would be needed to prevent farther rust.
Ivor Engleby
- Eltham, Victoria, Australia
^
June i, 2022
A. Try v% ammonium citrate solution (pH 3,5) ... Much safer and ameliorate for you and environment ... Hope it helps and good luck!
Goran Budija
- Zagreb,Republic of croatia
^
June 3, 2022
Q. Goran
The ammoniated citric acid works swell on stainless steel, merely is it constructive on mild steel?
Willie Alexander
- Colorado Springs, Colorado
^
June 4, 2022
A. Ammoniated citric acrid or ammonium citrate v% pH 3,5 must work on balmy steel too. Hope it helps and expert luck!
Goran Budija
- Zagreb,Croatia
^
December one, 2022
A. Hey guys, here is the easy reply. Apply a 5-6 meter thick dog concatenation. Shake the chain around in the tank to get the worst rust out. Launder out the tank with clean water. Use one bottle of Deoxidene - Rust Cleaner. Record upwardly the filler pigsty and shake around vigourously till it foams. Alow to dry in the dominicus. Wash out using three liters of fuel. Works for me!!
Kendall Williams
- Greatcoat Boondocks, South Africa
^
September xiv, 2022
Hey, working on tanks is not may favorite matter; spending a load of cash for crappy products, products that piece of work but cost too much and crappy so called PROFESSIONAL work is even more Not MY FAV THING.
Despite my actions during my crazy younger days. I care nigh the environment and I try very difficult to exit as minor of a footprint wherever I go ( I exercise have size 17 feet though).
Anyway, I wanted to tell you lot about this affair I found about tanks when I was nigh 20 from a old man I was working for in Oklahoma. He told me to go to the shop ane twenty-four hours and get him 3 gallons of apple cider vinegar, cheapest they had. I thought he was making pickles, I didn't even enquire him nearly information technology. I brought him his apple cider vinegar and he simply went straight over to a nasty gas tank nosotros had pulled the day before, he poured 1 and a one-half gallons in it, looked at me and told me to block off all those holes and shake that thing real skilful for a few minutes every hour until it was time to get home.
Anyhow, you get the picture. I'thou not even exaggerating; the next day when I was told to get empty that tank out (we left it overnight). I could run across myself on the lesser through the sending unit port.
At present, that tank was shellac and some rust. The one I am working on correct at present is straight-up mesomorphic nasty dry rust. So I have the vinegar in at that place with about 8 feet of tow chain -- cleans my chain too, LOL. I am getting too erstwhile to exist swinging tanks effectually but I am doing it anyway. I had a idea a flake ago though where I would strap the tank to my engine stand mount so I could merely plough it with a steering wheel effect. Would me much easier than picking this up and shaking it like I have been.
If I am Lying and yous try this, you would take wasted a couple of bucks and fabricated your tank olfactory property like a fresh dyed easter egg. I'm not lying though. This works and it'due south cheap and won't kill yous.
Flush with water, echo if you didn't wait long enough and it'southward still dingy, and so on. Common sense.
Larry L [last proper noun deleted for privacy past Editor]
- Boise Idaho, The states
^
Tumbling gas tanks with muriatic acid
July 8, 2022 -- this entry appended to this thread by editor in lieu of spawning a duplicative thread
Q. How-do-you-do, we restore steel gas tanks, in the process nosotros use a common conversion coating. Tanks often come in with heavy rust and other unknown contaminants. Tanks are tumbled with a ceramic media and heated alkaline solution, then with tumbling media and a diluted (1:ane) solution of HCl (ambient temp, inhibited or not depending on condition) to reach the level of cleanliness required. Tanks commonly crave 1-two hours of acrid tumbling, occasionally heavily rusted tanks require as much every bit 12 hours.
My question is volition 12+ hours of HCl crusade long term damage to mild steel? Some tanks have stainless steel fittings installed, can they be damaged?
Tony Markus
- Due north Hollywood, California, Usa
^
July 2022
A. Hello Tony. "Peradventure" is not a skillful answer, merely yous have found that sometimes information technology doesn't, whereas it's obvious that HCl tin can attack steel and eventually will eat through it. So I think the answer then is to attempt more educated guesses via some documentation...
Take a tank that you programme to tumble for a long time, and measure the steel thickness at 3 or iv different points, tumble it for a measured number of hours, and re-mensurate the steel thickness at those 3 or 4 points. If you are eating away a 3rd of the thickness, that's a serious problem and the procedure is highly questionable. If you are eating abroad but v%, it's probably not causing tanks to fail that wouldn't have failed in another day or two anyway. Information technology may exist difficult to get authentic thickness measurements and you may have to supplement them with tumbling a scrap tank until failure, cutting a bit tank to understand the thickness profiles later on years of utilize but before recoating, etc.
The mechanism of attack is dissolution in acrid, and so if the tank is sound after tumbling, and you are confident that y'all can fully neutralize the acrid, I don't retrieve information technology's a problem -- simply read through the earlier postings on this thread and encounter if there is whatever additional food for thought. Good luck.
Regards,
Ted Mooney , P.E. RET
Striving to live Aloha
finishing.com - Pine Embankment, New Jersey
^
July 8, 2022
Q. Hi Ted,
You practise a wonderful job and service with this forum!
Thank you for the aid, you're right, the understanding of the effects are more important to me than a detailed analysis. It was not clear to me if hydrogen embrittlement or some other type of chemical reaction would exist a concern with the longer than normal exposure times required to attain the cleanliness required. That being said, we are looking into alkaline rust removers to reduce the corporeality of acid use. Other than the increased treatment risks do you lot have whatever thoughts on their use?
Again, cheers for your help.
Tony
Tony Markus [returning]
- Northward Hollywood, California
^
July 2022
A. Hi again. Thanks for the kind thoughts. My experience is with general metal finishing rather than restoration of fuel tanks, and alkaline rust removers are sometimes used in such cases -- but it's not nearly every bit common equally using muriatic acid.
I have never heard of spending hours in hydrochloric acid fifty-fifty in a simple immersion application, let lonely hours and hours of tumbling with media in acid. Something sounds crazy that information technology should take many hours of acrid and tumbling to remove the rust and other contaminants. Perhaps you lot're not getting off the onetime coatings in the alkaline cleaner before proceeding to the acid.
Although I have no experience in this, and you accept a lot, it would have seemed to me that tumbling in hot alkaline cleaner for as long as necessary to remove grease and old organic coatings, followed by a few minutes of tumbling in phosphoric acid would get the tank ready for coating.
Regards,
Ted Mooney , P.E. RET
Striving to live Aloha
finishing.com - Pine Beach, New Jersey
^
July 12, 2022
A. Tony,
HCl is very bad for stainless, so if your tanks have stainless components in them I would avoid information technology.
Phosphoric ought to exist enough for about rust removal and acrid cleaning needs, if y'all really demand something stronger I would expect to a nitric/HF pickling formula.
Ray Kremer
Stellar Solutions, Inc.
McHenry, Illinois
^
July 13, 2022
A. Skilful solar day Tony.
Take you lot considered sand blasting / drinking glass bead peening to remove the rust / contaminants?
How large are the gas tanks, and do yous use "barrel" tumblers or a vibratory machine?
I'g sure AF Kenton from Nova Finishing Systems could offer some good advice.
Food for thought.
Regards,
Eric Bogner , Lab. Tech
Aerotek Mfg. Ltd. - Whitby, Ontario, Canada
^
July six, 2022 -- this entry appended to this thread by editor in lieu of spawning a duplicative thread
Q. Hello, we restore steel gas tanks, in the process we use a common conversion blanket. Tanks often come in with heavy rust and other unknown contaminants. Tanks are tumbled with a ceramic media and heated alkaline solution, and so with tumbling media and a diluted (1:i) solution of HCl (ambient temp, inhibited or not depending on condition) to achieve the level of cleanliness required. Tanks ordinarily require i-2 hours of acid tumbling, occasionally heavily rusted tanks crave as much as 12 hours.
My question is volition 12+ hours of HCl cause long term damage to mild steel? Some tanks have stainless steel fittings installed, can they be damaged?
Tony Markus [returning]
- North Hollywood, California, USA
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June thirty, 2022
A. Take used diluted muriatic acrid with skillful results. Flush with Acetone to remove water and line. Dump acrid down toilet when washed. I would not apply EastWood tank sealer as I am stripping information technology out of a tank I sealed with it ix years agone. Rust bubbles everywhere. Take used Kreem with practiced result and have a tank lined in 1993 that nevertheless looks like it did the day I lined information technology.
Brad Howren
- Warsaw Illinois United states of america
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March 17, 2022
Q. Ok so I used Hydrochloric acid and it seemed to remove the rust but in the process discovered that in that location is some kind of liner in it. And then now I have MEK sitting in it. Information technology's turning it gooey only not getting it off the tank. Whatever suggestions?
Don kurtz
Painter - Ohio
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June 26, 2022
A. If you lot are tumbling the tank with media in it, the concern is always getting the last of the media out. I utilize BB's when I tumble a tank, and employ a magnetic on a string to go the concluding few out. Merely drop the magnet in the tank opening and stick it to the bottom of the tank. Tumble effectually, and pull the magnet out with the final of the Bulletin board system on it.
Brian Haygood
- Tyler, Texas, Us
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August eighteen, 2022 -- this entry appended to this thread by editor in lieu of spawning a duplicative thread
Q. Hello I've come across this site via google and I'm a one-off hobbyist I estimate.
I'one thousand based in the UK and I have an issue with a fuel tank in my Ford Explorer.
The tank seems to be rusted on the inside; and the result is the fuel pump is picking up all this gunk in the tank and blocking the fuel lines, I've replaced the filters merely it's all the same cutting out whilst driving on the motorway.
As it's internal I was going to have the tank out, drain it and so add together some acrid such equally brick cleaner diluted to effort and remove equally much gunk and rust as possible.
Would this be feasible in your professional eyes?
Many cheers
Mark
Mark Woodfield
- West Midlands, UK
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August 2022
A. Hi Marker. Information technology'south probably a bad idea. Nosotros added your research to a thread which discusses it.
Regards,
Ted Mooney , P.East. RET
Striving to live Aloha
finishing.com - Pino Beach, New Bailiwick of jersey
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